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New Mod-X-R

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conductor_81
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« on: May 18, 2014, 12:11:01 pm »

Well it's on the table will start tear down today probably. I will try and keep this as up to date as possible. I will be trying to build with a tight budget. My goal is to show how people can build with a smaller budget yet be competitive and have fun. . I'm starting with a John Deere 180. It has the FC540v in it and it runs good. I'm thinking I will use the front wheels and tires from it and just put high speed bearing in them. As I go any questions, comments, and suggestions are welcome. It will get a peerless 700 and hydraulic brakes. I will also try and show how I make some of the parts as I go also. So I hope I helps someone out with the info. Sit back and enjoy the progress!!
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conductor_81
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« Reply #1 on: May 18, 2014, 07:59:53 pm »

Well after about two hours of working on the mower this is how it now looks.  . There is a lot to take off this thing. I'm fighting with the deck clutch now the bolt is kind of stuck and I can't keep the engine from turning over. It is an electronic clutch. But I'm really liking what I'm seeing. Hopefully with a couple more hours of work I will have just frame rails. Then the fun begins.
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« Reply #2 on: May 18, 2014, 10:16:02 pm »

I admire you trying to keep it cheap. But front wheels are not a place to do that. We have tried and tried to do it and have failed at every attempt. We put high speed bearings in and blew them out. We modified the hub and put better bearings in and blew out the hub and bent the wheel. the best combo we came up with was a reinforced hub with the solid steel bushings we just greased the heck out of them. and this was all on a modxr.

aluminum rims and hubs are a good $80 investment in safety and speed.
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Mark
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http://www.mpmowersports.com/
conductor_81
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« Reply #3 on: May 19, 2014, 09:30:54 am »

Thank you for the advise Mark. I have run the wheels with the steel bushing in the past and had luck with them. I have not ran any with bearings in them. So I will take your advise. I do have aluminum wheels on my present mower. They are 81/4 inch wide and I don't know how they will fit this mower. But I will probably go with the aluminum wheels that I have and make them fit. Thanks again for the comments keep them coming please!!
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Keith
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« Reply #4 on: May 24, 2014, 08:50:27 pm »

. Well made some progress today. That picture of course is the frame rails. And back piece. I left the shifter on because I want to see if I can make it work with my 700. The next couple pictures are if the engine plate. They show how I trimmed some weight off of it also. I bolted the engine plate back in and am now trying to figure out how to get the tranny plate at the same height. . I left the sides on the engine plate because I thought that it will add strength and stiffness to the frame once it's welded in. This last picture is of the under side of the plate where I trimmed off some more weight. Still debating on weather to just cut the whole piece out or leave it how it is. . Any comments suggestions or ideas are welcome.
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« Reply #5 on: June 06, 2014, 11:18:01 am »

. Here is a piece of plate steel that I'm using for my tranny plate. I put it at the very top of the frame so I can keep all my pullies and belt in side the frame. I will have enough clearance for my 700 also. More to come.
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Keith
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« Reply #6 on: June 06, 2014, 01:20:17 pm »

LOOKING GOOD. Grin
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JOHN HERRING
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conductor_81
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« Reply #7 on: June 06, 2014, 08:38:35 pm »

. Here is the engine plate in place all welded in also. I put it clear to the top of the frame also. The nice part was that the frame dips doin rite where it's mounted and it's just the rite amount of difference to keep my pullies in line. The nose cone of the tranny will be 1/2 below the plate and the dip in the frame is 1/2 inch lower. So I mocked it all up minus the clutch and everything lines up great. Any comments or thoughts are great!!
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« Reply #8 on: June 06, 2014, 08:42:53 pm »

. This is how i did the battery and fuel tank mount. I used 3/4 inch square tube I had inside the dash mount. I cut out the old battery mount area.
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Keith
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« Reply #9 on: June 06, 2014, 08:58:34 pm »

. I then used grade 8 bolts on the bottom of the battery plate and welded them to the bottom dash plate. I also welded a piece of small plate steel on the back to help hold the batter off the steering stem. I welded the plate to to the square tuning. Doing the really made the dash support and steering stem really sturdy. I had some round bar so I used that to make my up rites. I then welded some more round bar that I hand bent to the top of that for the gas tank support.
. And here is the finished product.


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Keith
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« Reply #10 on: June 25, 2014, 09:50:55 pm »


Here is the progress I've made. I had to raise the fenders to clear the rear tires. So I made uprights to hold them where thy need to be. I then welded flat iron on top with holes drilled in it and bolts welded in so at the track if I need to take the fenders off it just two nuts back there to undo. There will be two bolts on each floor board also to in do. I used thin wall 3/4 inch square tube for the frame work.
this is just another view of it. The uprights are welded to the back part of the mower and the frame.

Then this is a mock up of how it should turn out. Please any comments, questions, concerns, or advise is welcome!!
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Keith
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« Reply #11 on: June 25, 2014, 09:55:54 pm »


This is the other view I ment to post. Here is the side view of the fender mount.
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Keith
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« Reply #12 on: June 26, 2014, 01:28:38 pm »

YOU ADDED MORE BACK THERE THAN I DID ON MEGANS RIDE. Wink
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JOHN HERRING
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« Reply #13 on: June 26, 2014, 01:29:30 pm »

LOOKING GOOD THOUGH. WHENS THE FIRST TEST RIDE?
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JOHN HERRING
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conductor_81
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« Reply #14 on: June 26, 2014, 08:45:01 pm »

I'm hoping before July 12th. I have a lot to do yet. There isn't much more weight there. Just wanted a fast way to remove fenders if I have to work on the tranny at the track. I still need wheel bearings and heim joints for all linkages and front end. Have to get front axle and rear axle mounted yet also. But it's a work in progress.
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